Chamonard, Le Clos de Lys Morgon '17

Chamonard, Le Clos de Lys Morgon '17

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Morgon from one of the lesser-known OG natural producers in Beaujolais.

Morgon, Beaujolais, France

Joseph Chamonard was a contemporary of Marcel Lapierre, and farmed small plots of Morgon and Fleurie without chemicals while most of his neighbours were nuking their vineyards with pesticides and herbicides. He passed away in 1990, and his son-in-law Jean-Claude Chanudet has been carrying on Chamonard's work and making great Beaujolais ever since. Chanudet is a little, uh, prickly (which, along with their tiny production, might explain why the estate is less well known), but his wines are gorgeous, with soaring red berry fruit, brown spice, and flowers. Though the wines are generally bottled with little or no sulfur, we've tried many older vintages and they have an uncanny ability to age. That said, this particular vintage is funkier than most, and if you're opening one today, we'd recommend polishing it off with a meal (easily done!) rather than saving some for the next day.