Celler del Cesc, Tanca Els Ulls Macabeu de Vinyes Velles '17

Celler del Cesc, Tanca Els Ulls Macabeu de Vinyes Velles '17

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Nutty and rich but salty and fresh - kinda like if white Rioja took a beach vacation and left the oak at home.

Tarragona, Spain

Francesc Boronat is a young fella making wonderfully precise natural-ish wines in Tarragona, Catalunya, a short hop from the Mediterranean coast. He comes from a family of grape growers who sold wine to the local co-op and other wineries, but after he traveled around making wine for several years, he returned home to begin tending a few old plots of indigenous varieties. This wine is from old bush vines of macabeu (aka viura) planted in a vineyard buffeted by strong sea breezes. The grapes were left to macerate on the skins for 5 days, and the wine fermented and aged in a mix of clay amphora and stainless tanks. It's rich and textured but really fresh and clean, with pear, salty lemons, and scrubby herbs.