François Mikulski, Bourgogne Aligoté '17

François Mikulski, Bourgogne Aligoté '17

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Very old-vine aligoté from this excellent producer in Meursault, with herbs, fruit, and sneaky richness. Get an idea of why people make such a fuss about white Burgundy, without paying chardonnay prices!

Bourgogne Aligoté, France

François Mikulski is best known for his pure, chiseled style of chardonnay from Meursault in Burgundy's Côte de Beaune. In addition to a little pinot noir and bubbly, he also makes this aligoté from vines planted in 1929 and 1948, and it's a doozie! This grape long suffered from a reputation for making thin, screechy, high acid wines, but it's having a resurgence among a number of top-quality Burgundy producers who are working with old vine selections and making serious wines with some of the mineral complexity that white Burgundy is known for. This one was farmed organically (not certified), fermented with wild yeasts, and aged on its lees in tank. It's far from the acid-water stereotype of aligoté. with ripe pear and lemon, white flowers, a garden full of soft green herbs, and wet chalk. This'd be great with a hunk of goat cheese or a roast chicken!